“Black Coral” is the southernmost islet in the Namwmour chain of islands that straddles Kehpara Pass (Dauen Kehpara) on the southwest corner of Pohnpei’s barrier reef. It’s true name is said to be Kehpara, but hardly anyone calls it that. Instead, Kehpara is usually used to refer to the island on the opposite side of the pass (island on lower right side of top image). In the mid-1600s, the conquering hero, Isokelekel, first entered Pohnpei’s barrier reef through Kehpara Pass on his way from Ahnd Atoll to Nan Madol. The sandy and well-shaded coral island, which lies within the Kehpara Marine Protected Area (MPA), is currently owned by the Adams family (the proprietors of Ace Hardware and Ace Office Supply). Black Coral is immaculately maintained with serpentine footpaths running here and there through large sprawling trees and several simple, wooden huts for overnight camping. Good snorkeling is located off the eastern shore and in the pass to the north, where white-tip and black-tip reef sharks, spotted eagle rays, and other marine wonders can often be seen. The best SCUBA diving is along the outer edge of the barrier reef north of the pass, a spot called Kehpara Wall. The area is a spawning ground for several varieties of protected grouper. Though some sandy areas appear at low tide along the inner coast, Black Coral doesn’t have any true beaches.
To make reservations for day visits or night stays and to arrange boat transport from the Seinwar Launch behind Seinwar Elementary School call ACE at +691.320.8279 / 5637.
PC: Lee Arkhie Perez
Black Coral from above. (PC: Lee Arkhie Perez)
Black coral on the left, Kehpara on the right. (PC: Lee Arkhie Perez)
Black Coral (top island) and Kehpara (bottom island)
Beyond Pohnpei’s lagoon, the closest land to be found exists on two “satellite atolls” called Ahnd (pronounced änt) and Pakin (pä.keen). An atoll is made up of a number of coralline islets in a ring around a relatively shallow lagoon and is created when a high, volcanic island submerges over millions of years, leaving only the reef that fringed its shores. The islands form as sand, coral rubble, and other detritus collect on the reef and begin to support trees, small plants, and animals. Coral sand accumulates on the lagoon sides of the islands and creates beaches.
Ahnd (“Ant”) Atoll
Ahnd Atoll, popularly but erroneously spelled “Ant,” is 16 km (8 mi) southwest of Rohnkitti and consists of 13 low, luxuriant islands 3-4 meters above sea-level and a lagoon of 70 km2 entered by a single passage in the reef.
When the larger-than-life hero Isokelekel voyaged to Pohnpei, intent on overthrowing the rulers of Nan Madol, he came first to Ahnd and lived there for some time, learning about Pohnpeian customs from its inhabitants. In modern times, the entire atoll became the property of a single Pohnpeian family — the descendents of Henry Nanpei, who lived from 1862 to 1928. Nanpei’s shrewd business sense and knack for manipulating local power politics enabled him to acquire the atoll and amass a great deal of other land.
Ahnd Atoll Channel
Black tip reef sharks at Ahnd Atoll (PC: Tia Panuelo)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Ahnd Atoll, Federated States of Micronesia (PC: Alex Zuccarelli)
Imwen Sapw Island and channel entrance
Today Ahnd has a few human residents, the biosphere rangers who make sure people do not fish within the protected area. There is also resort run by the Nanpei family located on the island of Pasa (information for booking trips can be found below).
It is home to some of the largest colonies of black noddies, terns, boobies, and frigatebirds in the Pacific as well as a healthy community of gray reef sharks in and around Dauenai (passage).
The most interesting islands to camp on are Pasa, Nikahlap, Dolen Mwuroi, and Nahlos. The former two have long stretches of deserted white-sand beach and excellent swimming. Nan Imwinsapw is closest to Dauenai (passage), where all the best snorkeling and the most accessible diving is found, but it has a big rat problem. Pahn Mwek is near to both excellent snorkeling and some of the rare diving that exists inside the lagoon. For the most part, however, the lagoon is the domain of snorkelers, sandy and punctuated by beautiful coral heads with lots of color and life at low tide.
Dauenai on the south side is where most people go to SCUBA dive. It is known for orange sponges (on the west wall) and large numbers of barracudas, jacks, and sharks throughout. Reef fish populations around the pass, unfortunately, have declined in the last two decades, but hopefully will recover now that the area is protected. Even so, the place still feels busy compared to other locations and you’ll see all the familiar species — unicornfish, triggerfish, wrasses, surgeons, groupers, butterflyfish, angelfish, moorish idols, and more. Moray eels might be spotted on occasion. Spinner dolphins are regularly seen at the mouth of the passage and in the waters around Ahnd. Visibility in the pass, though not as spectacular as outside the reef, can reach 50 meters (164 feet) — certainly nothing to complain about.
In addition to drift-dives on either side of the deep passage, there is stunning (and frequently overlooked) diving on the outer wall of the barrier reef on the northwest side near Olouna (often known as “bird island” for the huge colonies of seabirds that nest there), and north of Pasa. The west wall of the barrier reef plummets to great depths, and because it is more protected from the northeasterly winds and waves, it is marked by an abundance of soft coral, holes, tunnels, and caves — an exciting place for any advanced diver. Giant clams are also common. Visibility on the outside edges can be extraordinary, exceeding 70 meters (230 feet). Currents can be swift both in the pass and around the outer walls.
Visiting Ahnd Atoll / Permission & Protected Areas
Because Ahnd is a privately owned island and UNESCO marine biosphere reserve permission is required from the Nanpei family for visits.
Contact LP Gas at +691.320.5661 / 2675 to make arrangements.
Core area(s) comprise a strictly protected ecosystem that contributes to the conservation of landscapes, ecosystems, species, and genetic variation.
A buffer zone surrounds or adjoins the core areas, and is used for activities compatible with sound ecological practices that can reinforce scientific research, monitoring, training, and education.
The transition area is the part of the reserve where the greatest activity is allowed, fostering economic and human development that is socio-culturally and ecologically sustainable.
Olouna (“Bird Island”)
Landing on Olouna island is prohibited to prevent disruption of the habitats of the seabirds who nest there. If you’d like to take a look at Olouna, consider making a kayak trip around it. You can arrange to pay your boat extra to transport a small ocean kayak or two.
Pakin Atoll
Pakin Atoll is composed of about 16 low islands, 13.6 km2 of reef, and a lagoon of 11 km2. It lies 38 km (24 mi) northwest of Palikir. In the early 1900s, Sokehs residents of Mortlockese descent were allowed to settle on the atoll, where their descendents (about 80) live to this day. Most of the islands are sparsely inhabited and all have excellent beaches, swimming, and nearby snorkeling.
One complication of visiting, however, is that Pakin has no true passage, making entry into the lagoon impossible for large boats and both difficult and dangerous for small boats. Boats enter at high tide at one of two places in the barrier reef (the usual spot is known as Uhrek), where the coral is slightly deeper than elsewhere — by a matter of a few inches. The crossing is narrow and complicated by strong surge. Except at the highest tides, the crossing must be carefully timed to correspond with the surge. Boats can easily capsize in the surf or be thrown up on the reef; several locals have been killed at the spot while trying to make the crossing in less than ideal conditions. When planning a visit, make sure that you hire an experienced pilot who knows this particular crossing and is committed to the safety of his passengers. Also, it is important to plan arrivals and departures to coincide with the highest tides.
All of the diving and the best snorkeling is on the reef wall outside the lagoon, where water clarity and reef conditions are simply mind-blowing. The wall north of Nikahlap is known for sharks, while the opposite side of the island is home to large schools barracuda. For sea turtle sightings, divers will want to try the walls on the northeast side. Turtles nest on many of the small islets north of Painpwel, Sapangin, Kehrot, and Osetik.
Pakin has similar features and conditions as And, except that the atoll has no true passage into the lagoon — which is limiting. Divers will mostly want to stay outside the lagoon. Small boats can enter only at high tide at one of two locations along the west side of the barrier reef. Both of these spots are sketchy with very narrow areas to maneuver, extremely shallow conditions, and dangerous currents and surge. Local residents have been killed attempting to enter when the conditions were less than ideal. The reefs on the west side drop off extremely deep — straight down. Hard coral and excellent visibility (often exceeding 60 meters) can be found all around the outside and in the lagoon as well. Most of the sites offer the same sorts of attractions, including large pelagic species, barracuda, jacks, tuna, whitetip and blacktip reef sharks, and sea turtles. Diving at Pakin is possible from May through October, but the best conditions are usually September-October.
“Turtle Gardens”
The many small islets around Painpwel, Sapangin, and Kehrot are nesting sites for sea turtles. Consequently, the outer reef wall northwest of Painpwel is famous for turtle sightings. Best at 10-35 meters.. Advanced.
“Barracuda Cove”
As the name suggests, this spot on the edge of the reef wall southwest of Nikahlap (Island) is a good place to see large schools of barracudas (among other things). Best at 10-30 meters.. Advanced.
“Barracude Cove” is inside an MPA and requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
“Shark Bay”
This drift follows the reef wall north of Nikahlap (island) and is known for large congregations of reef sharks and occasional oceanic species. Best at 18-40 meters.. Advanced.
“Shark Bay” is inside an MPA and requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
“East Wall,” “Mwahnid Wall” & “West Wall”
These are all outer reef drift-dives that can offer everything from fabulous hard and soft coral colonies and macro-life to large pelagics, sharks, eagle rays, and turtles. “East Wall” is east of Olamwun (Island), “Mwahnid Wall” is south of Mwahnid (Island), and “West Wall” is east of the primary point of entrance into the lagoon. Best at 18-40 meters.. Advanced.
“Mwahnid Wall” is inside an MPA and requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
We’d like to extend a big kalahngan to Mike Viti, John Ranahan, and Karino Olpet for sharing their in-depth, first-hand knowledge about SCUBA diving on Pohnpei — without which this page could not have been created. Images licensed from www.shutterstock.com.
And has steep outer reef walls that drop off into very deep conditions, especially on the west side. Currents can be swift anywhere outside the lagoon and in Dauenai (Pass), but particularly on the east wall. Visibility can reach 50 meters (164 feet). You’ll need a boat to get to all of the dive sites except “Turtle Canyons,” which you can access from the beach at Pahn Mwek (island). The channel between Pohnpei and And is notoriously rough during the winter. Diving at And is possible from May through October, but the best conditions are usually September-October.
“Bird Island”
This drift begins on the outer reef corner north of Olouna (nicknamed “Bird Island” for its huge seabird rookery) and goes south. Sharks, tuna, barracuda, turtles, and other large pelagic species may be seen. Best at 18-40 meters. Advanced.
“West Wall”
This drift runs either way along the western outer reef wall and features lots of hard and soft coral variety, caves, tunnels, holes, reef fish, and sharks. Best at 18-40 meters. Advanced.
“Turtle Canyons”
This spot in the lagoon north of Pahn Mwek (island) features shallow coral grottoes, lots of reef fish, and a strong likelihood of sea turtle sightings. Best at 10-23 meters on a late in-coming tide. Novice.
“Triggerfish Cove”
This is a spot on the outer reef wall south of Sakarawi (Island) known for triggerfish. Best at 18-40 meters. Advanced.
“Orange Wall / West Dauenai”
This drift begins outside and to the west of Dauenai (passage) and then follows the west wall of the passage north into the lagoon. The spot gets its nickname from the large orange elephant ear sponges that are prevalent along the wall, but this is a great place to see And’s gray reef sharks, a lot of beautiful hard and soft corals, and macro-life. Best at 18-40 meters on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
“Dauenai Pass (East)”
This drift begins outside and to the east of Dauenai (passage) and then follows the eastern passage wall north into the lagoon, featuring huge groupers, wrasse, turtles, rays, congregations of gray reef sharks, whitetip and blacktip reef sharks, large schools of barracuda, jacks, and occasionally billfish or dolphins around the mouth. Best at 18-40 meters on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
“Itol Rock”
This is a spot on the outer eastern reef wall between Pasa (island) and Nikahlap (island), which is sometimes considered part of the next drift-dive on this list. Soft coral, rays, and lots of pelagics are to be seen here. Currents can be intense. Best at 18-40 meters. Advanced.
“Nikahlap Wall”
This is a drift-dive starting at “Itol Rock” and running south along the contour of the reef wall. See Itol Rock for features. Currents can be very strong. Best at 18-40 meters. Advanced.
“Pasa North”
This is a drift-dive running in either direction along the outer reef wall north of Pasa (island) and featuring the usual And Atoll gamut of large pelagics, turtles, and sharks as well as blossoming coral on the wall. There are often strong currents here. Best at 18-40 meters. Advanced.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
We’d like to extend a big kalahngan to Mike Viti, John Ranahan, and Karino Olpet for sharing their in-depth, first-hand knowledge about SCUBA diving on Pohnpei — without which this page could not have been created. Images licensed from www.shutterstock.com.
This drift-dive follows the outer barrier reef wall north of Kepidauen Dauahk. Things to see here include eagle rays, napoleon wrasse, gray reef sharks, and schools of dog-tooth tuna. 10-40 meters. Best on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
“Dauahk Bridge”
This is one of the best dive spots on Pohnpei, following the reef bridge across the mouth of Kepidauen Dauahk. It offers the same things as the “Palikir Pass Bridge”, but at less depth. Large congregations of gray reef sharks, spotted eagle rays, and massive schools of black snappers, red snappers, and barracuda are regularly encountered. The snappers mate in late summer and early fall. Down to 36 meters. Best at 18-24 meters on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
“Pehleng Wall”
This drift dive-along the outer wall north of Kepidauen Pehleng is notable for gray reef sharks and the less-common silver-tip sharks, huge napoleon wrasse, schools of jacks, lionfish, and an abundance of soft coral. 10-40 meters. Best on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
“Pehleng Corner”
This spot is located at the prominent southern corner of Kepidauen Pehleng. Commonly seen are sweetlips, lionfish, and huge schools of both black and red snappers, jacks, and sometimes tuna. The reef wall is encrusted with nudibranchs and anemones. 6-40 meters. Best on an out-going tide. Advanced.
“Kehpara Wall”
This is a drift-dive along the outer reef wall north of Dauen Kehpara within the boundaries of the Kehpara Marine Protected Area (MPA). Sights include wrasse, jacks, groupers, barracudas, silver-tip sharks, and both black-tip and white-tip reef sharks. Lobsters, giant clams (tridacna), conchs, sea fans, and sponges are also prevalent. The island to the south, nicknamed “Black Coral,” gets its name from a variety of purplish, branching coral found in the area. This is one of the primary spawning grounds for local groupers. 6-37 meters. Best on an in-coming tide. Intermediate.
Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details. Kehpara MPA is closed to snorkeling and diving from January 1 to June 30 each year.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
We’d like to extend a big kalahngan to Mike Viti, John Ranahan, and Karino Olpet for sharing their in-depth, first-hand knowledge about SCUBA diving on Pohnpei — without which this page could not have been created. Images licensed from www.shutterstock.com.
This dive curves around the corner of the reef east of Nahlap (island). It’s best known for sponges and schools of mackerel, jacks, and rainbow runners. Reef sharks and turtles are also occasionally seen. 9-40 meters. Best on an in-coming tide. Intermediate.
“Laiap Bridge”
This dive follows the bridge across the entrance to Kepidauen Laiap southeast of Laiap (island) and offer opportunity to see plenty of pelagics, sharks, and sometimes turtles. 2-34 meters. Best at 15-25 meters on an in-coming tide. Intermediate.
“Nahtik Bridge”
This dive follows another bridge across the entrance to Kepidauen Nahtik southeast of tiny Nahtik (island) with similar sights as “Laiap Bridge.” 2-34 meters. Best at 15-25 meters on an in-coming tide. Intermediate.
“Ros”
The prime attraction in this narrow pass east of Ros (island) is the manta rays, which can congregate in unbelievable numbers (as many as 40). The main reason the site isn’t as frequently visited as “Manta Road” is that its so far from Kolonia. Schools of jacks, snappers, and barracuda are also common and occasionally green turtles. 5-40 meters. Best at 18-24 meters around the full moon. Intermediate.
“Penieu Corner”
This dive begins on the outer reef wall east of Kepidauen Ne opposite Penieu (island) and then follows the reef west and south, through the pass, and into the lagoon. 3-40 meters. Best at 18-35 meters on an in-coming tide. Currents are often strong here. Advanced.
“Lohd Bridge” (also known as “Lohd Harbor”)
This dive follows a bridge across the entrance to a small barrier reef passage east of Kepidauen Ne (pass). There are lots of sharks here. 2-35 meters. Best at 18-35 meters on an in-coming tide. Currents can be intense. Advanced.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
We’d like to extend a big kalahngan to Mike Viti, John Ranahan, and Karino Olpet for sharing their in-depth, first-hand knowledge about SCUBA diving on Pohnpei — without which this page could not have been created. Images licensed from www.shutterstock.com.
This dive is on the outer edge of the long, straight fringing reef east of Nahnningi (Joy) Island. It’s a good place to see schools of tuna and barracuda hanging out beyond the wall. It’s also one of the few places you might spot sea turtles. This side of the island is very exposed to winds, so summer is the best bet for good conditions. 1-37 meters. Advanced.
“Joy / Nahnningi”
This spot is known by most people as “Joy,” which used to be the name of the island nearby (the local name of the island is Nahnningi). The dive is actually in the small bay-like channel south of Nahnningi on the outer edge of the barrier reef. One informant reported seeing huge mantas here, larger than any at “Manta Road” or “Ros”. Other sights include schools of barracuda and the occasional sea turtle. 1-37 meters. Intermediate.
“Nan Madol” (Kahnimweiso)
This is spot, east of the ruins of Nan Madol (not far beyond Kerian islet), garnered fame when divers apparently discovered a line of pillars on the bottom that they believed were related to the story of Kahnimweiso — a fabled stone city that is said to have pre-dated Nan Madol. The pillars were later proved to be natural coral formations, but the site is still intriguing. Anemones, pipefish, hydroids, and a whole lot of other reef fish can be found in the area. The problem is that the visibility is often terrible and the water can be very rough. 3-21 meters. Best at 18-21 meters. Advanced.
“Pahn Nahkapw”
This dive begins in front of the boulder break-wall off Nahkapw‘s western shore and follows the steep reef wall as it curves around to the east toward Kepidauen Nahkapw. Water clarity at this spot can be absolutely incredible and the reef is alive with fish of many types. Shark sightings are a strong possibility in this incredibly deep blue hole — especially below 18 meters. 2-30 meters. Any tide. Novice.
“Na”
This wall dive is located east of Na on the outer slope of the reef. Staghorn and elkhorn coral, sting rays, sharks, manta rays, and the usual gamut of reef fish are what to look for. The water can be very rough in this area as it’s directly exposed to the northeasterlies, so winter diving is out of the question. 2-29 meters. Advanced.
“Nanwap Corner”
This wall dive in the Nanwap Marine Protected Area is located on the north side of Kepidauen Deleur, on the opposite side of the pass from Nahpali. This is a great place for sharks and rays, but it’s also one of the healthiest spawning sites for reef fish in Pohnpei. However, the pass (and the general area) has a reputation for rough water, and the currents can be intense. Mid-summer diving, when winds are minimal, is the safest. Best on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
There’s also good diving and snorkeling around the blue holes in the inner reef, where you’re more protected from waves and current. The coral is nice here and there are usually plenty of fish around. Best at slack-tide. Intermediate.
Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
“Areu North / South” (Kepidauen Alohkapw)
Drift-dives can be done on either the north or south edges of Alohkapw Pass (Kepidauen Alohkapw), beginning along the outer barrier reef walls and moving in to the inner reef. There have been reports of large of schools of reef sharks below 30 meters. Best on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
“Areu Wall”
Located along the wall of one of the inner reefs west of Kepidauen Alohkapw, this site is about the little creatures — invertebrates, small reef fish, sponges, tunicates, anemones, and soft coral. You can also find sea fans (18-24 meters), sea whips, white-tip reef sharks, and barracuda here. 2-34 meters. Currents can be strong at times. Best at 6-18 meters on an in-coming tide. Novice-Intermediate.
“Areu Avenue”
This is another inner lagoon wall-dive similar to “Areu Wall” but in a different location nearer to Kepidauen Alohkapw. Many of the same sights can be found, including sea fans at depth. 2-30 meters. Currents can be strong at times. Best at 6-18 meters on an in-coming tide. Intermediate.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
We’d like to extend a big kalahngan to Mike Viti, John Ranahan, and Karino Olpet for sharing their in-depth, first-hand knowledge about SCUBA diving on Pohnpei — without which this page could not have been created. Images licensed from www.shutterstock.com.
Manta Road is easily Pohnpei’s most famous dive spot due to its resident community of manta rays (including the all-black Black Morph variety) that cruise back and forth through the narrow channel as they filter-feed. The site is located between the fringing reef at the north end of Mwahnd Peidak (island) and a long strip of reef running northwest-southeast (2.75 km southeast of Kepidauen Mwahnd). The mantas mate between January and April, which is a good time of year to visit. Aim for the last hour of the out-going tide a few days on either side of the full moon. The channel has very strong currents — up to 7 knots — (which the mantas love), but which make diving and snorkeling tricky. You’ll want to avoid the spot on flood tides. The water can be crystal clear, but usually there are more mantas around when the visibility isn’t very good. Huge schools of fusiliers and jacks, as well as black-tip and white-tip reef sharks are common in the area. Small turtles are occasionally spotted. 3-24 meters. Best at about 16 meters. Advanced.
Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
“Tubastrea Gardens”
This spot is located at a bridge about 17 meters down in the lagoon and about halfway between Parem and Mwahnd Peidak islands. The area is known for brightly-colored tubastrea (tube coral or sun coral) on the south side of the bridge. There are also a great many fish, though visibility is sometimes lacking. 15-20 meters. Best on an in-coming tide. Novice.
“Mwahnd Peidak”
This spot off the northeast side of Mwahnd Peidak’s fringing reef is notable for huge schools of parrotfish — a family of fish that is becoming relatively scarce in general. 3-18 meters. Best on an in-coming tide. Novice.
“Mwahnd Wall”
This drift-dive on the inner edge of the barrier reef south of Kepidauen Mwahnd is notable for the health and variety of corals and for reef sharks. The attractions go all the way down to 36 meters, which is where you’re most likely to find the sharks. Best on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
“Mwahnd Pass”
This drift-dive on the west side of Mwahnd Pass (Kepidauen Mwahnd) is known for its whip coral, gorgonian fans (below 30 meters), tree coral, and macro life. It’s also a good place for eagle rays, reef sharks, crinoids, feather stars, and napoleon wrasse. The wreck of a catamaran lies at the edge of the channel. 3-30 meters. Best at 12-15 meters on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
“Mwahnd Cove”
This drift-dive is on the southeast side of Mwahnd Pass (Kepidauen Mwahnd), beginning along the outer barrier reef wall and following the contour of the reef inside to a little coral bay dubbed “The Cove.” Attractions sometimes seen here include multitudes of mating eagle rays, moray eels, schools of barracuda (24 meters), whip coral, shrimp, and loads of white-tip reef sharks resting on the sandy bottom at about 30 meters. You might even be lucky enough to spot resident leopard sharks. 15-30 meters. Best at 24-30 meters on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
“Inner Mwahnd”
This spot is on the inside edge of the barrier reef south and east of Kepidauen Mwahnd (pass). The coral is abundant on the wall. Reef sharks, barracuda, and plenty of reef fish are also found in the area. 3-20 meters. Best on an in-coming tide. Intermediate.
Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
“North Point”
Located at a sharp bend on the outside of the barrier reef, this wall dive is about sharks and large schools of pelagic fish. It’s quite a ways from any of the passes and the wind-exposed nature of the location means that the spot is only accessible during the summer. Down to 36 meters. Advanced.
“Lighthouse”
Sharks, pelagics, and more. This is a standard Pohnpei drift-dive that starts along the northern barrier reef wall and curves south into Kepidauen Pweitik (“Old Main Pass”). Best on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
“Lenger”
The areas north, south, and east of the Japanese seaplane ramp offer plenty for beginning divers. A variety of small reef fish, including gobies, angels, and parrots, octopi, sting rays, and lots of soft coral are found in the shallow coral grottoes. Visibility can range from terrible to very good. Best on a late in-coming tide. Novice.
“Parem”
This area on the fringing reef off the northwest end of Parem (island) offers more of the same kinds of attractions seen at Lenger. Visibility fluctuates greatly. Best on a late in-coming tide. Novice.
“Middle Pass” (Kepidauen Kiepw)
This spot is on the eastern corner of a narrow channel, called Kepidauen Kiepw, between Peinmen and Kepidauen Pweitik. The drift-dive starts on the outer edge of the reef wall and follows the reef south and east. This is a good place to see reef sharks. Best on an in-coming tide. Intermediate.
“Main Pass” (Peinmen)
This drift-dive begins along the northern edge of the barrier reef wall and follows the reef into Peinmen (Passage). Attractions include schools of black-tip and gray reef sharks (below 24 meters), occasional lemon sharks, schools of dog-tooth tuna, and sweetlips on the reef shelf at 24-30 meters. 5-30 meters. Best below 20 meters on an in-coming tide. Advanced.
“Sokehs Side Pass”
This little known spot in the narrow channel next to Peinmen is worth mentioning for the schools of large remoras that frequent the area. Best on an in-coming tide. Intermediate.
“Sandy Bottoms”
This blue hole on the inside edge of the barrier reef between “Main Pass” (Peinmen) and Palikir Pass (Kepidauen Palikir) is a great place for beginners to explore. Best on an in-coming tide. Novice.
“Palikir Bridge”
This is a deep dive that follows the reef bridge across the mouth of Kepidauen Palikir. It’s most famous for its schools of large pelagics, like tuna and wahoo, gorgonian fans, jacks, barracuda, humphead parrotfish, and huge schools of gray reef sharks. It’s also one of the places you might get a glimpse of Pohnpei’s little-seen tiger sharks. Currents can be strong. Best on an in-coming tide at 30-36 meters. Advanced.
“Palikir Wall”
This dive along the outer barrier reef wall west of Kepidauen Palikir is characterized by giant clams, triton’s trumpets, white-tip reef sharks, triggerfish, soft coral, and anemones. 9-37 meters. Best on an in-coming tide below 20 meters. Advanced.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
We’d like to extend a big kalahngan to Mike Viti, John Ranahan, and Karino Olpet for sharing their in-depth, first-hand knowledge about SCUBA diving on Pohnpei — without which this page could not have been created. Image Credits: Manta Road (Whitney McCurdie). All others licensed from www.shutterstock.com.
Visit the Paddling Around Madolenihmw page for a detailed description of this location and the adventures to be had in the area.
Entering the mangrove reserve requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
Kamau Pwoungapwoung
Though we didn’t map the hike to this destination as part of the eco-adventure map series (for lack of time), it would, never the less, be an exciting adventure to consider. Kamau Pwoungapwoung refers to a freshwater pool and waterfall at the headwaters of the Dipwilap Stream (Pilen Dipwilap), one of the tributaries of the Senipehn River (Pillapen Senipehn). The place is significant as the location where the last battle between the Saudeleur‘s warriors and Isokelekel’s men was fought. Upon being defeated by Isokelekel, the Saudeleur transformed himself into a small blue fish, that inhabits the pool to this day, and leaped into the waterfall. The hike would be a long one from the area around Pahn Sile. The closest access point would probably be from the direction of Nihpit fern meadow (reached from eastern Kitti).
The absolute best choice for a guide is Relio Lengsi. Give him a call at +691.924.2580 and discuss the best route options and access points for this location. Offer $50.00 for a full-day hike.
Nanpahlap Peak
The 137 m (449 ft) hill to the east of Takaiuh looks as if its top has been lopped off — which fits in with the story about its creation (see Takaiuh below). Though steep in places and somewhat overgrown, the ascent isn’t too strenuous. At the summit are the tumbled ruins of a prehistoric stone structure and a breath-taking view. The whole area around the southern foot of the hill is criss-crossed with Japanese trenches and dotted with tunnels, including at least one very long one leading into the hill. The grid of paddies and irrigation canals where the Japanese successfully cultivated rice (despite Pohnpei’s challenging climate conditions) are found on both sides of the unpaved access road, though you can get closest to the bulk of these fields from another road to the west.
Everything is private land, but no official access fees are charged.
To hire a guide, ask at the houses in the area or contact Hanke Albert at +691.320.4047. Offer $25.00 for Nanpahlap or a half-day of exploration in the area.
Nanwap Marine Protected Area is a 3.05 km2 (305 hectare) section of the barrier reef and adjacent lagoon areas on the north side of Kepidauen Deleur (passage). The sanctuary was founded by community members from Metipw and Lukop and their respective chiefs and gained legal status in 2010. It became the first of Pohnpei’s MPAs to have its own formal community-created management plan with the support of the Pohnpei MPA Executive Management Network and the state offices of the Department of Land and Natural Resources, Division of Fish and Wildlife, Office of Fisheries and Aquaculture, and Environmental Protection Agency. Nanwap is a “no-take zone,” which means no fishing or gathering of any kind is allowed within the boundaries. It is regarded as the “most biologically diverse and best preserved spawning and aggregation site” for many of Pohnpei’s core reef fish species. Snorkelers should seek out the protected blue holes on the west side of the reef, while SCUBA divers will want to do a drift dive on the southern wall of the reef during an in-coming tide.
Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.
Peiai is a small populated place near the turn-off for Pahn Sile waterfall. During the battle between the warriors of Isokelekel and the army of the last Saudeleur, Peiai was the place where the tide of battle turned dramatically (hence, the name references a situation where the runner-up in a race pulls ahead of the leader — loosely translated “the battle is reversed”). Isokelekel’s men were being beaten down by the forces of Nan Madol when one of the conqueror’s greatest fighting men pinned his own foot to the ground with his spear, refusing to retreat and declaring that he would kill any man who tried to run away from the fight. Isokelekel’s men rallied behind this show of bravery and pushed back the Saudeleur‘s warriors, chasing them up the Senipehn River and eventually to Kamau Pwoungapwoung, a waterfall at the headwaters of the Dipwilap Stream, where the Saudeleur was finally defeated.
Sapwalap
Sapwalap (“large land”) is an expansive region of mostly flat ground that makes up a sizable chunk of central Madolenihmw. The Japanese recognized Sapwalap‘s potential as a site of large-scale agriculture. During the thirty years leading up to World War II, sugarcane was cultivated and processed at a facility near Kitamw (the tower is still partly visible in the jungle off the road) and rice was grown in a patchwork of paddies fed by irrigation canals. Strangely, no one is growing rice these days, but the paddies are still there opposite the gleaming LDS Church. Other fields are found as far east as Lukop.
Tahio
Tahio, on the south side of Nanpahlap, is another place where the Japanese were active. The access road was built by them and the coastal area is full of trenches, rifle pits, dugouts, and tunnels. Everything is overgrown, but anyone who pokes around will be rewarded with interesting finds. Bring a local resident along.
Takaiuh Peak
You can’t visit Madolenihmw without being arrested by the sight of Takaiuh, a 160 m (525 ft) peak shaped like a traffic cone that stands on the north side of the bay and seems to guard the entrance to the Sapwalap estuary. The mythical origin-story of the hill — which bears a striking resemblance to the Biblical tale of the tower of Babel — involves Mwohnmur and Sarapwau, two wily brothers who enter into many Pohnpeian legends (they also created the Sahwar Valley and the rock of Pohnpaip).
How Takaiuh Came to Be
Long ago, two boys named Mwohnmur and Sarapwau were born in Salapwuk (Kitti) to a woman named Lienlama. The boys were always involved in clever schemes and mischief and traveled far and wide doing great works. Once, the brothers took a piece of stone, and using it like a canoe, paddled to Pohndolen Imwinsapw near what is now Tahio in Madolenihmw. There, Mwohnmur and Sarapwau amused themselves by piling up rocks until they had formed a large hill. A local demi-god named Lapongo saw what they were doing and wasn’t pleased, so he threw a stone at their hill and destroyed it. He then challenged the brothers to a competition to see who could build a mountain the fastest. The three set to work, but it soon became apparent that the boys were winning. Their mountain was so tall it had reached the sky. Being a poor loser, Lapongo became enraged. He picked up a stone and threw it at the new mountain, which broke into six pieces. The base of the mountain that remained standing was named Takaiuh (“standing stone”).
This was not the end of the conflicts between the brothers and Lapongo, however. Lapongo mocked and ridiculed the boys whenever he could, and they did not like it. Now, the brothers liked to play at a place called Pahnlikes, below the spot where they had settled on Likes peak west of modern-day Sapwalap. There was a steep slope there that they would slide down for fun, sitting upon the leaf sheaths of the kotop palm (Clinostigma ponapensis). The boys knew that Lapongo had been watching them and was aware of their play place, so they decided to trick him. Lapongo was invited to slide down the slope with the boys, but they chose a spot where the slope ended at the waterside (possibly the southern tributary of Pilen Kitamw). All three began sliding down the hill. When Mwohnmur and Sarapwau reached the bottom, they leaped off their sheaths and dived to safety, but Lapongo went straight and fell into the water. He sank down into the depths, and the brothers threw rocks on top of him to keep him from resurfacing.
Takaiuh is actually an island separated from the coast by a strip of mangrove forest. It was once inhabited, but is no longer. Though the hill is climbable, the ascent is extremely dangerous, characterized by very steep slopes and cliffs prone to rockslides with little or nothing solid to hold on to. For this reason we strongly advise visitors to enjoy Takaiuh from below rather than trying for the summit. Hikers who insist on seeking the summit, do so at their own risk. Distant views of the peak are found along the Circle Island Road, but the best close-up view from land is from the old Japanese road in Kepine. According to residents living in the area, the Japanese abandoned an attempt to build a trail all the way to the top of the hill. Some of the low wall can still be seen on the lower slope.
