Liduduhniap Waterfalls
The easiest waterfalls to visit on Pohnpei (no hiking required) are the tiered “horse-tail” falls, Liduhduhniap, just a few kilometers from Kolonia. When the Greater Nett Eco-Adventure Guide was published in 2015, we wrote of Liduduhniap:
“Some might consider accessibility to be a red flag and assume that a location so close to town would be completely spoiled by a constant flow of visitors and thoughtless development. That’s not the case here.”
Unfortunately, things have changed recently (2017). Under the direction of Pohnpei’s new tourism department, the landowners at Liduduhniap have chosen to severely undermine the natural integrity of the site by replacing the dirt path to the lower falls with an unsightly series of concrete steps and a concrete hut near the edge of the pool. Toilets have also been built on the site. For those of us who knew the place before this “development”, it will never be quite the same again, but Liduduhniap is still a beautiful spot — not just the two waterfalls themselves, but the greater area, which is lush, rugged, and often partially enshrouded in thick mists that drift down from the steep mountains. The population around the site is relatively sparse, and it is hoped that most of the land will remain as it has for decades — green and wild.
The Liduduhniap Waterfalls lie on a portion of the Nanipil River (Pillapen Nanipil) located right at the feet of the mountains and fed by a great deal of rain (the primary dam and reservoir that supplies the town with water is just a bit upstream). The upper falls cascades 4 meters (13 ft) into a deep basalt plunge pool with a jaw-dropping elevated view of the river valley and the slopes of the mountains. From there it spills over the lip and plummets another 8 meters or so (26 ft) into a larger, but shallower pool. Swimming is excellent at both pools, though the first is more difficult to get in and out of. Most people simply opt to take a flying leap off the rocks, but you can also carefully cross the river above the falls and climb down to the pool from the far side without too much trouble (go barefoot or wear five-fingers to avoid losing your flip-flops in the swampy sections). The water is crystal clear — except immediately after heavy rains — and always on the chilly side, making it a great escape for oppressively hot and humid Pohnpei days. The deep, narrow valley funnels air along so that there’s always a bit of a breeze, too, which keeps the ferns waving hypnotically and the temps down. No one is quite sure how deep the upper pool is, but it’s deep — deeper than you’ll ever sink after a jump. However, one must still take care to scan the water before leaping; flash floods sometimes wash tree trunks and other debris down from the mountains and these can become wedged in the pool below the surface. Depending on how high the river is, you may be able to swim up and get behind the falls, where there’s a small depression in the rock. There’s also a large cavern on the eastern side of the pool. The lower pool is too shallow for jumping.
The well-manicured and landscaped gravel trail to the site begins left of a large nahs (community hut) near the unpaved road and opposite the landowners’ house, meandering past blossoming hibiscus shrubs, plumeria trees, and ginger until it reaches a couple of ramshackle huts above the river. These make nice spots for a picnic lunch, while in the evenings the family uses them for pounding and drinking Pohnpei’s dizzying ceremonial drink, sakau (kava). Turn right by the huts and scramble down to the river to visit the upper falls. Note the mortar holes on the north side of the pool rim, where sakau was pounded in ancient times. To reach the lower pool and waterfall, continue along the main trail and down a series of concrete steps. The family charges an access fee of $1.00 per person to visit the falls. Occasionally they may ask you for $5.00 if it looks like you plan to take a lot of photos of the site.
- Plan for 30 min – 2 hours to enjoy the waterfalls.
Upper Nanipil Bird Walk
If you continue up the road from Liduduhniap, you’ll soon pass the dam and reservoir on the left. Just beyond this, also on the left, a footpath leads into the forest and runs through the woods above the stream for 1.1 km (0.68 mi). Among birders, this scenic walk is second only to Sokehs Mountain in terms of the variety and prevalence of species that can be seen. It’s easy to get to and doesn’t require any huffing and puffing, and the forests are rich and unspoiled and full of birds. There are no houses along the trail, which means that traffic and noise are at a minimum. You can see many species on the walk, but highlights include the Pohnpei Cicadabird (Coracina insperata), Pohnpei Fantail (Rhipidura kubaryi), Pohnpei Flycatcher (Myiagra pluto), and Crimson-Crowned Fruit Dove (Ptilinopus porphyraceus). We suggest you hire a local birding guide and bring a pair of binoculars. Stick to the path to avoid damaging this pristine watershed.
- Plan for 2-3 hours for this walk.
- Visit our Birding page to learn how to find birding guides.
Sengnaip Waterfall
This little-known two-tiered waterfall is located about 400 m (0.25 mi) south of the Nanipil Bird Walk described above. If you cut off the path and continue down the slope for about 170 m (186 yd), you’ll hit the main stream, which you can follow up for another 144 m (157 yd). At this point, you reach a large basalt pool that narrows on the far side and disappears into a rocky slot. You can get a great view and wonderful pictures of the falls from the rocks on the east side of the pool, but there’s no easy way to go further without swimming. If you do the latter, you’ll end up in a small plunge pool enclosed on three sides by high rock walls. There’s a cave just above the water level on the east side. The spot is unbelievably peaceful and has been seen by very few people. Treat it with utmost respect.
- Plan for 2-3 hours for this excursion.
- Visit our Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of guides who can be hired for this hike.
Likei & Pahn Pwet Waterfalls
If you hire a knowledgeable guide and continue hiking south at the conclusion of the Nanipil Bird Walk (where the trail crosses a stream on a large log), you’ll soon strike the main river again. The route stays with the watercourse for 1.5 km (0.93 mi) with very gentle elevation gain (4% slope avg). At the end of this segment, the river is joined by another stream coming from the southeast. Following either course for about a third of a kilometer will lead you to a waterfall. The western route continues 0.37 km (0.23 mi) up a slope, where the hike steepens to about a 25% slope average before coming to Likei Waterfall. The eastern course leads 0.23 km (0.14 mi) with a 18% slope average to Pahn Pwet Waterfall. The two waterfalls are quite dramatic and little-known both by visitors and by local people. This area, called Nan Madap, is actually disputed territory; both Sokehs and Kitti claim it, though the municipal boundaries as they are typically drawn seem to place the location within Sokehs.
- Plan for 5-7 hours for this hike.
- Visit our Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of guides who can be hired for this hike.
Nan Kiepw Waterfall
Also with a local guide, a third falls can be accessed from a completely different route, beginning just west of the community hut by the Liduduhniap trailhead. This hike climbs up the mountain slopes fairly steadily for 3 km (1.86 mi). The first two thirds of the distance is relatively easy with a slope average of about 12%, but then the slope steepens considerably to about 41%. Nan Kiepw Waterfall is high up at about 500 meters of elevation (it may be one of the highest falls on the island), just below the summit of Dolen Nanikep and off the east side of the trail. Sometimes you can see this falls from the lagoon after heavy rain.
Serious trekkers have the option of continuing past the waterfall, up to Dolen Kiepw (610 m), and on to Dolmweir (735 m), where a thatched shelter was built for hikers in 2013 (note that the roof of the hut was already deteriorating when we visited only six months or so after it was constructed). This is an admittedly tough hike with slopes ranging from 25% to 40% and very rough terrain. The shelter is 1.5 km (0.93 mi) beyond Nan Kiepw falls. From the shelter, trails run west to Pekenuht (705 m) and down into Pehleng or east to Nahnalaud (772 m).
- Plan for 5-7 hours for this hike.
- Visit our Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of guides who can be hired for this hike.
Nanipil River Swimming Holes
“Cable Bridge Hole”
This is by far the most popular swimming spot on the Nanipil River located 4 km (2.5 mi) from downtown Kolonia, where the watercourse turns sharply away from the Nanipil River Road and forms two deep, placid pools. There used to be a cable footbridge that crossed this portion of the stream, but now all that remains are a couple rusting cables strung high above the water. The water at the site is clean and quite cool — an excellent place to freshen up on a sweltering afternoon. Avoid the site, however, during or immediately after heavy rain, as the water gets muddy from all the sediment washing into the valley upstream. Cars can be parked on the opposite side of the road.
“The Swimming Pond”
This is a favorite with young kids in the area, located 5.3 km (3.3 mi) from downtown Kolonia. A short walk from the Nanipil River Road leads to a long, deep pool with a steep slope on the far bank. Rope swings are often strung up on both sides of the pool, and there are some grassy spots to picnic and a tiny hut or two. The landowners, who live in a house on the side of the road opposite the trailhead, charge visitors $1.00 per person.