Nan Kiepw
Nan Kiepw
Nan Kiepw, which means “in the lilies,” is a hillside overshadowed by Dolmweir peak. A Pohnpeian myth tells of a Yapese magician, named Sou Iap, who voyaged to Pohnpei and was responsible for the creation of Sokehs Rock). One of Sou Iap‘s companions, Souliken And, noticed a girl collecting clams on a reef north of Sokehs Island, and thinking her very attractive, chased her deep into Nett, carrying an ihd leaf with him. On the hillside below Dolmweir peak, Souliken And lost his leaf and named the place after a species of white lily he saw there.
During the Sokehs Rebellion in 1910, Pohnpeian rebels fleeing from German and Melanesian troops briefly took refuge at Nan Kiepw, rebuilding some earthen fortifications from the Spanish Period and repelling a small attack.
Today, Nan Kiepw maintains a pristine beauty that betrays no sign of past violence. A tributary of the Nanipil River (Pillapen Nanipil) runs through the area, forming a wide gentle cascade, some small pools (though none big enough for swimming), and a “horsetail” waterfall before winding into the valley. Upstream is a basalt outcropping — really a great boulder — that forms an overhang where a few people can comfortably camp out of wind and rain. Huge ivory nut trees, red sandlewood, and a variety of hardwoods dominate the lush native forest, and there are many unusual varieties of fungi to be seen.
The Origin of the Ivory Nut Palm
On the fourth voyage to Pohnpei after its founding, a man came named Mederiap, bringing with him the ivory nut palm and propagating it on the island. Prior to this time people had mostly lived in caves, because they had nothing to use for roofing material, but ever afterward, the fronds of the ivory nut palm were woven together to produce roof thatch for houses.
The moderately challenging trail begins behind a house near the Nett hydroelectic building at the end of the Nanipil River Road (the same trailhead for Nahnalaud). Hikers cross the Nanipil River directly and walk along a well-maintained footpath for 0.99 km / 0.61 mi (5% slope avg) before coming to the first major branch. The left (east) branch leads on toward Nahnalaud, while the right (west) branch heads to Nan Kiepw. From this point it’s 1.4 km / 0.87 mi (14% slope avg) to the last residence along the trail at 265 meters of elevation, and then another 1.8 km (1.12 mi) to the waterfall. This last segment has two little ascents with slope averages of about 20% and 26% and a more moderate bit in between (11% slope avg). Sakau (kava) plantations are found on both sides of the trail much of the way. Hikers should take care to avoid damaging these valuable plants.
Crab’s Eye Vs. Red Sandlewood: What to Know and Why it Matters
Two species of trees found both in inhabited areas and in the upland forests of Pohnpei produce small brilliant red seeds about the size of popcorn kernels. These can be seen scattered across the forest floor and often on the trail leading to Nan Kiepw. Red seeds with a single black dot on them belong to Abrus precatorius (Crab’s Eye Seed or John Crow Bead), while solid red seeds come from Adenanthera pavonina (Red sandlewood). The first type of seed (with the black dot) contains a compound, called abrin, that is 75 times more toxic than ricin and can be fatal if ingested; the fatal dose is about 0.1 mg for an adult of roughly 68 kg (150 lbs). Symptoms of poisoning include nausea, vomiting, convulsions, liver failure, and death after several days. The second type of seed (all red) is harmless when cooked and is sometimes eaten as a snack by Pohnpeian children. Strangely, the same Pohnpeian name — kaikes — is used to identify the two species of trees. Both Abrus precatorius and Adenanthera pavonina originate on the Indian subcontinent. Seeds are sometimes used to make necklaces and other jewelry.
Na Malek
Na Malek (“his chickens”) is a rock overhang and cave — located in the part of upland Nett once known as Nansokele — said in myth to have been the home of the demon Taimuan. The site, which has excellent views of the valley, Dolen Eirike, and Dol Rakied, is reached via a steep loop of path (0.61 km / 0.38 mi with a 42% slope average) that branches off from the Nan Kiepw trail. The overhang is large enough to provide a protected camping spot, and the elevated cave is bone-dry, flat-floored, and suitable for sleeping. Water running off the rock can be filtered for drinking. This is a relaxing and beautiful place to watch birds, including the Grey White-eye and rare Long-billed White-eye.
- Plan for 8 hours for both Nan Kiepw and Na Malek.
- Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nan Kiepw. Offer $50.00 for a group of five or less.
The Tale of Taimuan
A well-known Pohnpeian myth states that Na Malek was the the home of a hideous old demon, named Taimuan, and his sister, Litapinmalekelek. Taimuan had a hankering for human flesh and was, in particular, interested in the beautiful daughter of the Saudeleur — the supreme ruler that reigned from Nan Madol. Deciding that he wished to devour the girl, Taimuan set out for Nan Madol, transforming himself into a handsome young man along the way and leaving his old parts at different points in the mangroves — his white hair, swollen legs, swollen testicles, sagging eyelids, etc. When Taimuan arrived at Nan Madol and presented himself to the Saudeleur, both the girl — who was called Kisin Ntamwahu (“a little bit of good blood”) — and her father were impressed with the young suitor. Kisin Ntamwahu fell for Taimuan and begged her father to let them marry. Soon the two were married and given a home on Pahn Kadira.
After residing at Pahn Kadira for a while, however, Taimuan obtained permission from the Saudeleur to take Kisin Ntamwahu back to Na Malek. On the way, he picked up all his old parts from the mangroves and was restored to his prior appearance. Kisin Ntamwahu realized she had been tricked, but Taimuan carried her away against her will and confined the girl inside the cave at Na Malek. Then he climbed to the top of the mountains to invite all the other demons in the area to join him in feasting on the girl. While he was away, his sister, Litapinmalekelek, discovered Kisin Ntamwahu and felt sorry for her. She began to dig the girl out of her prison and encouraged Kisin Ntamwahu to turn herself into an ant, in order to escape, and flee into the forest. She warned the girl not to pass any plants without greeting them politely. As Kisin Ntamwahu ran, she greeted all the plants, big and small. All except one. Feeling a sudden need to urinate, she relieved herself in the forest and didn’t realize she’d done so on a plant called kampanial.
When Taimuan found that Kisin Ntamwahu was gone, he confronted Litapinmalekelek, but she claimed to know nothing. In a rage, Taimuan showered his sister with obscenities (specifically, he shouted, “Your vagina! My penis!” — a highly offensive reference to an act of incest) and then took off into the forest to catch Kisin Ntamwahu. He questioned each plant he passed, but none would tell him anything until he came upon the kampanial, which told Taimuan which way Kisin Ntamwahu had gone. Shortly thereafter, Taimuan met two worms on the path. He asked them where the girl had gone and they promised they would tell him if he pulled down his eyelids. He did so, and the worms threw dirt in his eyes. When Taimuan tried to wash his eyes out in a nearby streamlet, the worms muddied the water upstream, causing him to go blind and eventually die.
- Please visit the Local Guides & Tour Operators page for a list of experienced guides available for hikes to Nan Kiepw.
