Laiap (Rainbow Island)

Laiap is an island located east of Nahlap Island on the southern end of Pohnpei. The island is owned by the Christian family and is another great picnic spot for those looking for an island to spend the weekend on. There is a two-story cement house on the island, the 2nd story is available for guests to stay in during day trip or overnight stays. The island has plenty of open space and is well shaded by trees. The island’s north side is where the nice swimming spot is, it starts of shallow and slopes deeper as you go further out. The surrounding reefs are great for snorkeling and paddling, however be aware of strong currents and undertows especially when swimming on the southern and eastern sides of the island.

Images taken by Lee Arkhie Perez.

  • To book a reservation for day trips and overnight stays, call Cliff Hotel at +691.320.5939/2415.

Ros Island

Ros is another beautiful uninhabited reef island in the south. The long, skinny island seems to be slowly disappearing as it erodes, but there are huge areas of wonderful sand on the west side to lounge about on and a narrow belt of trees. It’s mostly notable as a destination for paddlers, taking a break from exploring mangrove forests nearby, or SCUBA enthusiasts, resting between dives (Kepidauen Ros is one of two locations on Pohnpei famous for manta rays). There is good swimming and snorkeling a few kicks from the island.

  • For permission to visit or camp on the island, call +691.320.5896 or the Kitti Municipal Government Office at +691.320.5038, 320.5808, 320.5049, or 320.3257.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Ros Island

Nahlap Island

Local kids swim near the Nahlap Island dock, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
Nahlap, owned by former FSM congressman John David, has become one of the most popular lagoon island get-aways in Pohnpei State largely because it’s easy to get to, affordable, and has lots of huts for visitors. There are two docks, several stilt huts out over the water for lounging around and taking in the scenery, a volleyball court, and a variety of picnic spots. The island also has a small chapel on it located further in from the picnic area. They also have wifi on the island but only in a certain area and not across the whole island. The island is large, shady, and quite pleasant. Though the surrounding ocean is dominated by mangroves and seagrass, there are places on the far side and around the docks with good snorkeling. The southeast coast has some shady beaches at low tide (the best is in front of the tiny chapel) and rope swings for the kids. The turn-off for the launch at Sekeren Iap is about 21 km west and south of Kolonia. Continue past the Henry Nanpei memorial and the Rohnkitti Church all the way to the end of the road.

To make reservations or arrange for a boat taxi from Sekeren Iap in Rohnkitti, call +691.320.2776. Or call the Kitti Municipal Government Office at +691.320.5038320.5808320.5049, or 320.3257 and ask for assistance.

Pohnpei Adventures >> Islands >> Nahlap Island

Western Kitti GPS Data

Downloadable GPS Data Files

The following files contain all the packaged GPS data for each of the featured locations in the Western Kitti Eco-Adventure Map Guide.

Three file types are provided. KMZ and KML files are compatible with Google Earth. KML is compatible with Google Maps. GPX files can be imported into ArcGIS (a professional mapping application) and some hand-held GPS devices.

NOTE: All files are free to the public and can be used for any purpose without permission.

Dolen Uh Hike & Pilen Seleur Eel Pools (2015)

Sahwartik & Sahwarlap Waterfalls Hike (2015)

Six Waterfalls Hike (2015)

Coordinates

The following coordinates correspond with sites featured on the Western Kitti Eco-Adventure Map Guide. It is our dream to eventually create a Pohnpei GPS app that could be uploaded to smartphones and other devices, but for now, these points of interest can be entered manually in a hand-held GPS device as needed.

NOTE: All GPS devices have a margin of error. That margin increases with interference — when there is a thick canopy of trees, during bad weather, or when mountains obstruct the satellite link. The geosynchronous satellites employed when navigating on Pohnpei are located low on the southwestern horizon, such that maintaining a strong connection while hiking on the northeast side of a given mountain range can be difficult. Coordinates on the northeastern slopes of mountains are less accurate than in other locations.

Coordinates are not yet available for this area. We’re working to get them on-line ASAP. Please check back soon!

Downloads >> GPS Central >> Western Kitti GPS Data

Paddling Around Western Kitti

Pwudoi Mangrove Sanctuary

This small reserve covers an area of 1.39 km2 and includes the pristine mangrove forests around Pwudoi (north of Dolen Uh) and some of the adjacent lagoon and fringing reef. There are two major mangrove channels that run through the sanctuary. One goes 0.69 km (0.43 mi) up to Pilen Seleur — the same watercourse where the eel pools are located. The other channel is 0.61 km (0.38 mi) long. Both are excellent, scenic paddles with plenty of seabirds to scope out. The launch at Seinwar is a good point of access for this area.

  • Entering the MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Mangrove Channels & Coastline

Western Kitti doesn’t have an abundance of long mangrove channels to paddle through, but it does have lots of smaller ones. The best of these are in the north. One interesting loop cuts around a chunk of mangrove forest, combining the 0.68 km (0.42 mi) of Dauen Tomwara with another 0.7 km (0.44 mi) segment. Another loop encircles Kiparalap Island with a 0.48 km (0.3 mi) segment through the mangroves. If you put in near the Sakartik Stream bridge (Pilen Sakartik), you can also experience this 0.89 km (0.55 mi) channel leading to the lagoon. Dauen Nansakar offers another 0.83 km (0.52 mi) of channel to explore.

Nearby Islands

Two single islands in the north — Kiparalap and Pohn Lahpar — and two island chains make great destinations for paddlers. You can get to the coast of Kiparalap from the south side and Pohn Lahpar from the east side. Otherwise, both islands are surrounded by mangrove forests. A string of small islands and mangrove clumps on the barrier reef south of Dauahk Passage (Kepidauen Dauahk) are roughly 5.5 km (3.42 mi) west of the community launch in Dien. It’s a fairly long paddle, but the islands make a nice spot for a rest and some lunch. The snorkeling on the inner reef walls in the area is sublime. Finally, the beautiful islands of Kehpara and “Black Coral” lie 6.58 km (4.1 mi) southwest of the Seinwar launch. There are primitive shelters on both islands for camping and incredible snorkeling in the pass that runs between. Kehpara has a beautiful white sand beach at one end.

  • Visit the Islands page for more information about Kehpara and Black Coral islands and how to book huts for overnight stays in either location.
  • Entering Kehpara MPA requires a permit. Visit our MPA page for details.

Paddling Distances Around Western Kitti

Starting Ending Distance (km) Distance (mi)
Dien Launch —- Pohn Lahpar Island East Coast 1.9 km 1.18 mi
Dien Launch —- Kiparalap Island South Coast 2.4 km 1.5 mi
Kiparalap Loop —- 2 km 1.24 mi
Dien Launch —- Dauen Tomwara (Channel) 1 km 0.62 mi
Dien Launch —- Kepidauen Dauahk (Passage) 7.2 km 4.47 mi
Dien Launch —- Dauen Soundau (Channel) Launch 5.8 km 3.6 mi
Dauen Tomwara (Channel) Loop —- 2.9 km 1.8 mi
Kiparalap Channel East End —- Kiparalap Channel West End 0.48 km 0.3 mi
Dien Launch —- Kepidauen Pehleng (Passage) 6.67 km 4.1 mi
Dien Launch —- Dauahk Islands 5.5 km 3.4 mi
Sakartik Bridge Launch* —- Lagoon 0.89 km 0.55 mi
Sakartik Bridge Launch* —- Dauen Nansakar (Channel) East End* 1.27 km 0.79 mi
Sakartik Bridge Launch* —- Pwel Weita Launch* 4.8 km 3 mi
Pwel Weita Launch* —- Pilen Seleur East End* 3.97 km 2.5 mi
Pwel Weita Launch* —- Unnamed Island North Coast 2 km 1.24 mi
Seinwar Launch —- Pilen Seleur East End* 1.97 km 1.22 mi
Pwel Weita Launch* —- Seinwar Launch 4.53 km 2.8 mi
Seinwar Launch —- Sekeren Iap Launch 4.9 km 3 mi
Seinwar Launch —- Kehpara / Black Coral islands 6.58 km 4.1 mi

*This segment may be difficult or impossible to traverse at low tide.

Map Guides >> Western Kitti >> Paddling Around Western Kitti

Sapwtakai and Other Prehistoric Cultural Sites & Ruins

Prehistoric Sites & Ruins in Kitti


The Fortress of Sapwtakai

Sapwtakai (“rock land”) is a 13,000 m2 stone complex that crowns a hill north of Wenik. The site was first occupied around 1250 A.D. and functioned as a political center for at least four centuries. The walls, terrace platforms, stone-paved walkways, tombs, and other features were built in three phases. The upper portion of the fortress was the residential area, while the southern part was the ceremonial center.

The wall on the north side of Sapwtakai is higher than at other points — presumably to deter enemies from that direction, while the steep slope on the east side offers natural protection. About 15 meters north of the complex perimeter is another free-standing 1.5 to 2 meter high wall that runs south and east. These defensive structures failed, however, to protect the fortress from incursions by the Dipwinpehpe clan, which took control of Pehleng and then moved south, driving out the Soukitti clan and conquering Sapwtakai. The fortress was occupied for a period of time, during which the Dipwinpehpe destroyed some of its features. Neighboring Onohnleng eventually decided that the need to regain power over the region justified open war. The main force of warriors were sent marching north from Lukoap. At the same time, a fleet of canoes was assembled off the coast. But instead of containing more fighting men, the canoes carried dummies. The Dipwinpehpe saw what Onohnleng wanted them to — two separate forces set against them. They divided their own army to deal with both the men on land and the fleet, only to find that they’d been tricked. The divided army was soon defeated by the men of Onohnleng, Sapwtakai was retaken, and the regions that now make up Kitti were united under centralized leadership for the first time.

Sapwtakai continued to be utilized for some time after the unification of Kitti, but was abandoned around 1850. Other than a meticulous archaeological survey by Joyce Bath in 1980, the ruin has mostly been left to time and nature — rarely visited and entirely unmanaged by Pohnpei State and the Historic Preservation Office. A lot of the hill has been overgrown by wild hibiscus, durien, and hellishly stickery wild yam vines with spines that will go right through the soles of booties or FiveFingers. There is still much to see, but it’s imperative that one finds a good guide who knows the site well.

Points of interest include boulder walls as tall as 2 meters beyond the northern perimeter, a platform of tabular basalt in the northern corner that rises 2 meters above the wall, several 450-year-old house platforms with central fire pits, breadfruit storage pits, a large burial complex constructed of basalt boulders and prisms and containing two openings leading to a central crypt, a contemporary Japanese slit trench, a 2-tiered platform with a central fire pit where hammer stones for pounding sakau were discovered, and seven river cobbles that are said to be magical sling stones.

“Kitti Rock” Area Ruins

The cluster of ruins on the slope below Sapwtakai were referred to as “Kitti Rock” by archaeologists because a basalt stone from Nan Madol was placed in the area when Kitti was founded. There are many sites. We’ve highlighted only a few here.

Dolomar Paiei (Site 35-26)

This is a two-tiered stone platform in Sapwtakai district with terraces on two sides.

Dolomar Pailong (Site 35-14)

This is a stone platform southwest of the Sapwtakai ruins.

Peidolenmai (Site 32-8)

Peidolenmai (“stone platform of the hill of breadfruit”) is a 3 x 4.5 meter stone platform in Alauso with two breadfruit storage pits inside the enclosure. The pits and the name indicate the purpose of the site.

Peinkareraua (Site 35-17)

Peinkareraua is a stone platform with an enclosing wall 2 meters thick and two low platforms that together formed the residence of the ruler of Kepihleng and the center of state ceremonial events, located southwest of Sapwtakai ruins in Sapwtakai district.

There are many access points for these ruins. It’s possible to cut southwest from Sapwtakai and find oneself in the midst of the highest concentration of the “Kitti Rock” sites, but trails also run from Nanmand, Marahu, and Seinwar. Ask around for guides at houses in those areas.

Diadi & Wenik Sites

“Dolen Samaki” (Site 30-18)

This is a stone enclosure on an 86 meter hill in Wenik district, identified by the name of the hill on which it is found. At the site is a huge magical boulder (takai wek mai) that was used in combination with a spell to ensure a good breadfruit harvest. There are also three other large boulders with special properties. The site is mentioned in the oral history of Utin Iap, the “banana of Yap”.

Pahn Kipar (Site 30-19)

Pahn Kipar is a 5 x 6 meter stone terrace platform with an extended breadfruit storage pit in Wenik district.

Peinmwas (Site 30-20)

Peinmwas (“stone platform of the worm”) is a stone platform, now mostly buried or scattered, between Wenik and Diadi districts. The site is mentioned in the Utin Iap (“banana of Yap”) oral history.

Pohn Kohla (Site 27-3)

This 13 x 15 meter rock platform and stone-paved terrace is located between Wenik and Diadi districts on the southern slope of a hill. The location has two peitehl (sakau stones) and an uhmw (rock oven) site.

The most direct access point for these sites is at Oare, but it’s also possible to reach them via trails beginning opposite the Kitti SDA Church. Ask around for guides at houses and stores in either of these locations.

Seinwar Area Sites

Niahlek (Site 34-29)

This is a single 5 x 6 meter stone platform with a central pit located in Seinwar district.

Soaid (Site 34-32)

This stone burial platform is found in Seinwar district on the hillside above the Circle Island Road.

It’s possible to find people in Seinwar who can lead visitors southeast past Soaid, Niahlek, and other sites in this vicinity. Ask around at houses and stores along the main road.

Pan Pei, Alauso, Poatoapoat & Wenik Area Sites

Narong (Site 31-17)

This is a semi-circular stone terrace platform with a large shell midden, where a number of artifacts — including a breadfruit pounding stone, hammer stone, and coral grinding stone used to make breadfruit peelers from cowrie shells — were found. Breadfruit was prepared at this place for preservation in pits. The site is located in Poatopoat district.

Pan Pei

About 680 meters southwest of Sapwtakai and 400 meters northeast of the Kitti Municipal Office are the structures of Pan Pei. The primary feature in the group is a 169 m2 burial platform built of prismatic basalt columns and containing four crypts. The platform is about 1 meter high. At one point in the past the crypts were roofed with columns. A road 25 meters south of the Municipal Office leads up into the hills, passing several of the Poatoapoat sites and connecting with a footpath that runs north to the Pan Pei sites before ending at a residence. From the residence, another footpath goes southeast to the top of a hill where the Japanese had an anti-aircraft gun installed (the gun is not there now).

“Pilen Koaroan” (Site 35-19)

“Pilen Koaroan” consists of three stone structures, including a double vault tomb attached to a wall and a stepped platform with a central pit. It’s part of the “Pan Pei” group.

“Diadi” (Site 30-16)

This is a single 9 x 11 meter stone platform surrounded by a wall and identified by the name of the district in which it lies. The area is marshy. The wall ranges from a half meter to a meter in height and has a single entrance about a meter wide, while the central pit is little less than a square meter and a third of a meter deep. “Diadi” is also unique because the walls consist of boulders, flat stones, and oblong basalt prisms mixed together.

Site 30-17

This is a stone ruin in Diadi district just below the peak of a hill and nearby the “Diadi” ruin.

For these sites, ask at and around the Kitti Municipal Office for a guide.

Salapwuk Area Sites

Elen Eni

Elen Eni (“ghost path”) is the sacred burial site of a number of traditional high priests, called soumw. These priests were instrumental in the religious cult that thrived in Salapwuk prior to the conquest of Christian missionaries. Many Pohnpeians are afraid of the site and would never go there or consider taking a foreigner there, but there are some guides who would be willing to make a visit if certain ground-rules are followed.

Lehn Mwahmw

Lehn Mwahmw (“fish pool”) is a natural pool on the Lehnmesi River rather than a man-made site. Located in Salapwuk district, the pool is believed to be a spot that Pohnpei’s early settlers stocked with fish upon arrival.

Lehnpoudek

Lehnpoudek (“mooring pool”) is another natural pool on the Lehnmesi. Myth suggests that Pohnpei’s founder, Sapwkini, and his entourage moored their canoes at this spot.

“Rasalap” (Site 24-7)

This is a 10 x 14 meter stone complex (141 m2), consisting of boulders stacked to form two low platforms separated by a wall and enclosed in a meter high perimeter wall. Once again, the name actually refers to the area — a huge, marshy savannah and fern meadow on a hill west of Salapwuk district — rather than to the structure itself. The most unusual aspect of the site is the dual courtyards — a feature atypical in prehistoric Pohnpeian architecture. The site’s purpose is not clear.

Sokosoken Leng

In the forest off the west side of the road past Salapwuk Elementary School is a basalt boulder with a coralhead on top. Sokosoken Leng (“landing of heaven”) and its stone marks the spot where Pohnpei’s mythical founder, Sapwkini, first docked his voyaging canoe and later began to build Pohnpei on the reef, using magic to pile up rocks and earth to form an island.

Takain Pwohng

Takain Pwohng (“stone of night”) is a trio of boulders along the Lehnmesi River, where one high priest (soumw) of the Salapwuk religious cult was said to have lived in ancient times, allegedly performing human sacrifices and ritual cannibalism at a small cave under the largest rock.

The best point of contact for the Salapwuk sites is Welten Panuel. If Welten cannot take you himself, he will be able to recommend a guide for most or all of the Salapwuk area sites. Visit the Guides & Tour Operators page for contact info.


Map Guides >> Western Kitti >> Prehistoric Cultural Sites & Ruins in Kitti

Dolen Uh & Other Treeless Hills

Treeless Hills & Fern Meadows

One of the most visually distinctive features of the area between Pehleng and Pwudoi involves the fern meadows that crown the tops of several treeless hills on both sides of the main road. These features exist where shallow bedrock and repeated burnings inhibit tree growth.

Dolen Uh

One rounded hill, called Dolen Uh (“standing hill”), lies immediately west of the road in Pwudoi and offers a nice hike that anyone can manage. Begin next to the road 0.22 km (0.14 mi) after the Pilen Seleur eel pools and follow the footpath through the woods and past three utility poles to the FSM Telecom tower at the 94 m summit. The roof of a small concrete hut is a nice spot for a picnic or for enjoying the sunset. Panoramic views are found in all directions. This hike can be done without a guide and without any special permission. With the exception of one small, scrubby tree next to the concrete hut, the rest of the hill is covered with low spreading plants with tiny flowers, called “yellow grass,” and a variety of Lycopodiella fern routinely found in meadows of this type.

Tents can be pitched in many places around the gentle slopes, though there is no water on the hill and it’s exposed to off-shore winds (pack out ALL garbage — leave nothing behind).

No access fee is charged.

  • Plan for 45 to 90 min with some leisure time at the top.

Mallen Loange Peidak

Another interesting fern-topped hill is located northeast of Dolen Uh and is easily accessible from the same road taken to reach the Dolmweir / Pekenuht / Nahnalaud trailhead in Pehleng. The turn-off for this road is 3.2 km (2 mi) north of the Dolen Uh trailhead just before a basketball court. The meadow, or savannah, on the hill’s crest is known as Mallen Loange Peidak (mal means “meadow”) and offers commanding views of the western coasts, Nan Lapahu Stream valley and Woun Oapoaro — another valley. Drive to the end of the access road (1.72 km / 1.1 mi) and walk about 0.42 km (0.26 mi) up the footpath until coming to a clearing on the south side of the path, where a second footpath leads southwest to the hill (0.22 km / 0.14 mi). Anyone living nearby can point you in the right direction, and children in the neighborhood will act as guides for a couple of bucks.

  • Plan for 45 min to 1 hour for this hike.

Pohn Dollap

A third hill, called Pohn Dollap (“on the big hill”), is found between the Circle Island Road and Mallen Loange Peidak. To find a guide (offer $12.00) and obtain permission to cross private land around the hill, ask at the houses along the inland side of the road 1.8 km (1.1 mi) south of the Mallen Loange Peidak / Nahnalaud access road.

  • Plan for 2 to 2 1/2 hours round-trip.

Map Guides >> Western Kitti >> Dolen Uh & Other Hills with Fern Meadows

Pilen Seleur Eel Pools

A man lifts a live river eel from the water in Pwudoi, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Waterfalls and mountains can be visited in many places, but the experience to be had at Pilen Seleur in Pwudoi is uniquely Pohnpeian. River pools on either side of the road are home to scores of huge Marbled Eels — also called Giant Mottled Eels (Anguilla marmorata). The eels are sacred on Pohnpei and figure prominently in local mythology. Members of the Lasialap (Great Eel Clan) consider the mottled beasts to be their extended family, protecting and feeding them (Pohnpeians have a taboo on eating freshwater eels, though they are eaten in nearby Kosrae). Visitors can walk down to either pool and watch local men and boys stroke the eels, pick them up, or entice them with cans of mackerel to slither entirely out of the water. Some of the creatures are more than a meter long. You can even try handling one yourself; don’t worry — the eels are quite docile and rarely bite.

The pool on the west side of the road is large, deep, and picturesque. It’s a popular swimming spot for the young members of the family living there. There tend to be larger eels at this spot, but because the water gets waist-deep pretty quick, you can’t easily wade in. The pool on the east side is small and rarely more than a foot deep — it’s the best place if you’re interested in trying to pick up an eel yourself. Treat the beasts with respect and care.

A boy lifts a live river eel from the water in Pwudoi, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

  • Plan for 30 min to 1 hour at the location. The families living next to each of the two pools charge $3.00 per person. You’ll also want to purchase a can or two of mackerel at a nearby store to feed the sinuous creatures.

More About the Giant Mottled Eel

The species of eel found on Pohnpei has a wide distribution and exists in tropical environments ranging from East Africa to French Polynesia. It’s also found in southern Japan and Taiwan (where it is endangered). Young eels usually have yellowish or light brown backs and become darker as they age. The largest eels are dark brown mottled with black with cream-colored bellies. They have tiny rows of teeth and protruding lower jaws. Mature females have been known to grow up to 2 meters (6.5 ft) in length.

Mottled eels have two distinct phases to their life-cycle. After spending as long as 20 years in freshwater streams or estuaries, the eels leave their homes and migrate westward across the Pacific to an area in the open ocean west of the Mariana Islands (in the case of Pohnpei’s eels, this is a distance of more than 1,600 kilometers / 990 miles). There they breed, lay eggs, and die. After hatching, juveniles journey to find land, where they swim up rivers and streams and establish themselves in deep pools.

Map Guides >> Western Kitti >> Pilen Seleur Eel Pools

Sahwartik & Sahwarlap Waterfalls

Hiking / TrekkingWaterfallsSwimmingCaveBird-Watching

Sahwartik Waterfall, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)

Located on converging streams within Salapwuk’s deep Sahwar Gorge, Sahwartik and Sahwarlap are a pair of waterfalls whose splendor and grace defy reality. The wider falls is named Sahwarlap, which means “shining brightly,” and its tall, thin neighbor is called Sahwartik (“shining faintly”). Sahwartik, a “horsetail” falls, is the more picturesque of the pair and is probably the tallest waterfall on Pohnpei at about 20-24 meters (65-80 ft). It lies at the terminus of the gorge, hidden in a fern-carpeted niche with a sizable plunge pool and enough flow to create its own misty breeze. The water is very clean and often quite chilly — amazingly refreshing after a hot hike. Sahwarlap’s stream angles into Sahwartik’s from the northwest. The falls is wider and shorter than Sahwartik and has a much shallower pool. Both waterfalls are great for a mid-hike swim, but Sahwarlap‘s pool is shallow, while Sahwartik‘s is relatively deep.

The trek begins east of the road that leads to Salapwuk Elementary School, just before the paving ends (park under the trees on the east side of the road). After crossing the landowner’s property, a well-maintained trail begins at the rim of the gorge with inspiring views of both waterfalls, then descends in a zigzag along the slope to the stream bed. The slope trail is generally well-tended, but without any railing on the outer edge. Hikers should move slowly and with care. In a few places there are rough steps that can deteriorate after heavy rain.

Once one reaches the bottom of the gorge, there’s no obvious trail, but the way is clear. Merely head up-stream and stick close to the water — a collection of little streamlets. There are no deviations from the valley, so it’s impossible to lose your way before hitting Sahwartik. Sahwarlap can be a little trickier to locate. Hug the west side of the stream bed and keep your eyes peeled for a path near where the Sahwarlap Stream (Pilen Sahwarlap) flows into the larger watercourse (Pilen Sahwar). This footpath climbs over a little hillock, from the top of which the falls is visible through the trees.

Note that sakau (known elsewhere as kava) is heavily cultivated throughout the west side of the valley and along the slope trail. The large shrub with its heart-shaped leaves and thick, knobby branches — sometimes pure green, but more often mottled — is easy to identify. The plants have great value to their owners. Hikers should treat them with respect and avoid breaking branches or otherwise damaging them as they pass.

The Sesiwo family charges $5.00 per person for access. No guide is necessary for this hike, but if you want one, the family can scare up some kids to go with you. Offer $5.00 and make sure that everyone is clear that you’re paying one person, even if a whole group of kids trail along behind.

  • Plan for 90 minutes to 3 hours round-trip with a swimming session at each waterfall.

How the Sahwar Valley was Formed

There was once a woman in Salapwuk named Lienlama who had two sons named Mwohnmur and Sarapwau. The boys had many adventures and became notorious in Pohnpeian legend, being responsible for the creation of a number of interesting geographical features including Takaiuh (hill), Pohnpaip (rock), and the island of Takaieu. The boys were eternally curious, and one time they took their mother’s loom stick (made from a sword fern) and dug in the earth to see what was below it. The hole that they dug was so deep that they reached the Underworld, and because they could see the shining lights of that other world through the hole, the gorge was named Sahwar, which means “shining” or “flashing.”

Map Guides >> Western Kitti >> Sahwartik & Sahwarlap Waterfalls

The Six Waterfalls Hike

Hiking / TrekkingWaterfallsSwimmingCaveBird-Watching

Pahnairlap Waterfall, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
Because Pohnpei’s rainforested terrain is so challenging to move through, inexperienced hikers might think a jaunt into the wild interior of the island is out of reach. It isn’t. Almost anyone in relatively good physical condition can handle the “Six Waterfalls Hike”, which delves into the verdant forests and lush raparian environment of the remote Nanmeir Valley above Salapwuk.

The adventure begins near Salapwuk Elementary School. The early part of the hike follows a wide, mostly flat track through the trees. This is a good place to look for Asian waterbuffalo, or carabao, which some of the Salapwuk residents use as beasts of burden. The large, big-horned animals, which were brought to Pohnpei from the Philippines by the Spanish in the 1890s, may look fearsome, but are actually quite shy, gentle creatures. You might see one lolling about in a patch of mud or plodding along with a smiling child perched on its back.

Nan Emp Waterfall, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
Over time the track becomes a narrow footpath and begins to roll up and down as it passes through hilly native forests. Shortly after crossing the Sihngar Stream (Pilen Sihngar), there’s a fork in the trail. Continuing straight will keep you above and west of the river, while the eastern way leads down toward the upper Lehnmesi River and Pahnairlap, a serene punchbowl falls with a great little pool beneath it.

The rest of the hike follows along the banks of the river and occasionally crosses over it, stopping at four more waterfalls — Nikotoapw, Olotong, Iro, and Nan Emp — each with its own unique character. This segment is quite difficult, as hikers must traverse the round, jumbled stones that line the riverbed and its banks. Go slow, use your hands, and watch your footing.

Nikotoapw Waterfall is found a bit to the east of the river, above where the Nikotoapw Stream (Pilen Nikotoapw) joins the Lehnmesi. The site is screened by a pool with a wide “block falls” behind it, which hikers must circumvent. On the other side, the stream issues from a narrow slot. Continue through this and one comes to an enclosure mostly hidden from outside. There lies the falls and its sizable pool. If you swim under the falls and climb up on the rocks behind, you’ll find a cave.

Hikers on the Six Waterfalls route, Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia (FSM)
The third falls, Olotong, is found on the opposite side of the Lehnmesi from Nikotoapwpw. This is followed by plenty of hiking in the riverbed and one segment where the trail leaves the river and cuts through the forest before coming back to the watercourse. Iro and Nan Emp are both found on the west side of the river not too far apart.

The sixth falls, called Lipwentiak, is also hidden from view by the topography. At one point the river narrows and passes through a high-walled slot. Though there is a way up and around, the easiest and safest way past is to swim through the slot. On the other side, the walls open up to reveal a large pool with high walls on all sides, an island of cobbles, and beyond all that, a tiered “horsetail falls” that flows from a vaguely heart-shaped portal of dark rock. It’s very dramatic.

In all, the trek offers tons of great swimming and truly unreal scenery. Good footwear is a must.

  • Plan for 6-8 hours round-trip with short swim breaks at each waterfall.

The Story of the Eel of Pahdol

A long time ago, a couple from Wene came to live in a place called Iro. One day there was a great storm and the heavy rains resulted in a huge flood. Two women in the area went out to fish in the flood, and while they were fishing, a starling flew over and dropped a small stone. The women took the stone home and gave it to the couple from Wene. Later, at a place called Pahnkipar (“under the pandanus tree”), the stone broke apart and from it was hatched a tiny freshwater eel. The couple kept the eel as their pet and allowed it to live in a pool at Pahdol (“under the hill”) in Pahnais. When the eel grew up, however, it began to act in sinister ways. At night, the eel would escape from its pool and sneak into the house, where it would stare at the sleeping couple. The couple became uncomfortable and decided to kill and eat the eel, but the eel overheard their plan, came into the house, and attacked them. The couple fled into the forest and hid under a huge rock, where they believed they’d be safe. The eel discovered the hiding place and ambushed the couple, devouring them alive.

The eel then traveled into the Nanmeir Valley in Pohnpei’s interior and followed the Lehnmesi River source. There she met Kiroun Meir, a high-titled man, who brought her to live with him at his home. The two became lovers and the eel was impregnated. She was restless, however, and departed, continuing to follow the river. At Lipwentiak, the eel encountered a hunter named Kiroun Mand, killing and eating eels. Recoiling at this sight, she created a sharp turn in the river with the writhing of her body. Soon after, she gave birth to her first daughter, the matriarch of the Sounlipwentiak subclan. She had other children later who became the founders of the Lasiadohng (“eels of the dohng tree”) and Lasiakotop (“eels of the kotop palm”) subclans. After that, the eel went to live in Dauen Sapwalap, where she terrorized the local inhabitants, devouring so many that the land became mostly deserted. When the monster finally died, her body formed Dolen Nett.

Map Guides >> Western Kitti >> Six Waterfalls Hike

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